
I’m finally traveling this summer. First there were deadlines, then a big move, but now I am reading and writing a lot, plus wandering. This is my ideal state. If retirement is a life sculpted around roadtripping, words and birds, and the time to drink a full cup of coffee in situ, no wonder people like it.
My job affords me flexibility in summer, so I’m getting to do my favorite thing, which is to take the long cut. I don’t really like an interstate, and most people who know me are aware that I don’t appreciate going fast. I’m more for smaller roads, checking out the scenery, getting to know the view through the windshield. Preferably with an audiobook going1.
I like getting out of the car when I’m traveling, too. We’ve already covered my devotion to gas station food (that post is on fire—you people are really into your gas station recos), but the gold standard trip detail is that rare glory: the ferry ride.
My friend Beth, the one who took care of me on the Santa Fe museum scene—(do you hate all these links? sorry, I’m just trying to be complete)—is on a roadtrip right now during which she has taken four ferries. Can you imagine! Where is she, Xanadu? Beth knows how much I like ferry rides, and sent this video from one of her many.
Courtesy: Beth
I was recently in Door County, where I took a fantastic ride to Washington Island as the friends of my life gossiped happily nearby. Here is my ticket, which required use of a paper punch by an old sea captain! At least I assumed he was an old sea captain, as he carried a big Thermos and seemed weathered.
I’ve ridden a coastal ferry in a rental camper van and the whole vehicle was rinsed by a huge wave of sea water (amazing, terrifying). I rode a ferry that was followed by a pod of orcas (I cried; the locals seemed worried about me). One from last summer’s roadtrip was operated by a rope! Many years ago I ferried (!!) to Madeline Island, chatted all night in a bar with longshoremen, and came back the next day with a fisherman’s net and a hangover. The ferry from Dover to Calais gives me a stomachache, and if the concept didn’t freak me out, I’d take the Chunnel instead. On the single day I was in southern Spain, I was refused a ferry ride to Tangiers due to catastrophic winds that tossed and churned the sea, and I will always be wistful about that—so technically still a memorable ferry ride.
There’s magic in driving off the road to travel an entirely new element. I love the fade of the old place you’ve left behind, and how the new one comes into focus. I suppose if you take a ferry for your daily commute, it’s not quite this magical. But for a landlocked Iowan, what a flourish. I like it all—the mist, the seafaring vessel, the little life preserver hung at the front of the boat, the way everybody wants to take a selfie on a ferry. Plus, as with train travel, you don’t have to drive. The trip has your full attention.
Here’s hoping your summer is going quickly in some places (knucklesweat-level heat), and slow in others (demanding proper attention).
Top 5 recent audiobooks: North Woods by Daniel Mason, All Fours by Miranda July (holy shit), The Best Minds by Jonathan Rosen, My Name is Barbra by Ms. Streisand, My Effin’ Life by Geddy Lee. Up next: James by Percival Everett
Me too on ferry rides.
Here's my ferry story: In the summers in CT I would take the kids in the morning on some outing to wear them out and one day we went to the Gillette Castle in East Haddam. It was about 1.5 hour drive but as you know in NE there's no direct route to anything. Just windy roads. So we got to the castle. Took the tour. Kids were young so they were mostly bored by it. Enjoyed the grounds except the wasps/bees that were buzzing around.
Then we piled back in the van and I programed the GPS home. Back in THOSE days, it was a Garmin GPS (not a phone) with maps that only updated occasionally. I started down the hill toward River Road. Daniel (the GPS voice who was British of course because that accent is more trustworthy) said: "at the corner turn right." I turned right. He then said "Continue 1.2 miles. BOARD FERRY" There was a microscopic beat then me and all the kids SCREAMED and I did a 16 point turn right there on that tiny river road, heading back in a more sensible direction.
I have nothing against ferries. I love ferries. But who knew where that ferry was taking us! We had not taken a ferry to GET to the castle. Where was Daniel going?
We'll never know.